This is a conversion kit for a 4 foot single tube shop light.  It can be used on a dual tube but it produces the lumens of a single tube.    Why use this ?

It uses only 18 watts of power versus 40 watts (or 80 watts) uses the 5630 size LED’s  and has a dimmer feature.

YOU GET:

2 – 1 meter (40 inch) 5630 60 LED per meter self adhesive LED strips

1 – 90 to 220 volt AC to 12 volt DC adapter

FOR => $9.99 – which is the cost of an average “new” old style single tube for a 40 watt four foot shop light and tubes – but this uses 80 percent less energy and last fives times as long

Savings depends on how much you are paying per kW hour. You take the number of watts, multiply by the amount of time used, convert to kW and multiply by the kW hour rate.

Let us calculate how much each 80 watt shop would cost per hour to run with a 150 watt high pressure sodium light cost to run per hour?

So, let's say it costs about $0.07 per kW hour:

Get the number of watts used:
80w + 150w = 230w

Running for 12 hours a day:
230w x 12 = 2760w

Convert to kW:
2760w / 1000 = 2.76 kW

Get the daily cost:
2.76kW x $0.07 = $0.1932

This would also be power consumption for 3 dual shop light (2 lamp – 40 watt)

So 20 cents per day you say is not bad, but if you calculate at 3 x 18 watts per day -  it does not even come near that for a month.  The daily use figure above is divided by ten

• An average 40-Watt Fluorescent is about 3500-Kelvin in terms of brightness and which is about 2900 to 3100 lumens with a shorter life than LED  of about 10,000 hours
• These LED last about 50,000 hours and have a Color Temperature of about 7500-9500k(Cold White), 6000-6500K(White) and 3000-3500K(Warm White)  [this kit is for 5630 size Cold White]
• The important differences are light output and power consumption. For reference, a 60 watt incandescent lamp produces about 800 lumens.

FOR Instancce . . . 

• 3528 size 60 LED per Meter
• 864 lumens/meter
• Power consumption 6 Amps, 14.4 watts
• 60 lumens per watt

However as you can see from the pictures – 5630 size LED strips put out about three times the light of 3528’s

Our LED Strips in this kit uses the newer 5630 SMD LED. This LED is very suitable for lighting applications because of the very good color rendition (CRI:85) and high light output of 30-35 lumens per LED which is then about 2100 lumens per meter – or per four foot segment.

If you want it brighter you can double the LED strips used and effectively have then 120 LED per meter for lumens in the range of 4200.

• Specifications for 3528, 5050 and 5630 LEDs including lumens, amp/wattage draw and diode size.
• Photos of the actual illumination characteristics of each diode type

Epistar LED Specifications

Notes

• Lumens: A unit equal to the amount of light emitted per second
• Voltage Draw: This is per LED. Most LED strips such as the ones we offer group LEDs into 3′s, achieving an operating voltage of 12
• Diode & Chip: Used interchangeably to refer to a semiconductor device with two terminals. The term is somewhat arbitrary when speaking of electrical boards in general, but in this context we’re using them to refer specifically to LED chips designed for surface-mounting.

5630 LEDs are brighter than 5050 and 3528 LEDs  5630 LEDs are by far the brightest, but it is not due simply to a larger lighting surface. There are other factors that go into the output of an LED diode (measured in luminous flux/lumens). The reasons are to do with the design of the chip and the amount of power that they draw.

1. Cold White flexible LED strip 7500-9500K Color Temperature

2. LED SMD Size - 5630

3. 150 SMD Leds per 16 feet (can be cuttable per every third LED)

4. Flexible installation can be used on curved surfaces

5.  Adhesive backing.

6.  18 watts per meter!

7.  7.5 AMPS per 16 ft reel - We recommend a 10 amp power supply for an entire reel

8.  CE and RoHS compliant

9.  No hazardous materials such as lead and mercury!

10.  NO UV emissions

11. 363 lumens/ foot  or  1200 lumens/meter

12. 12v DC constant

13. Fully Dimmable

14. 120' degree wide angled beam

However, when you are calculating power consumption on inductive items such as fluorescent lights (and electric motors) you must calculate the power factor into the equation – which for simplicity we did not do here. Fluorescent lights draw more than a simple watts divided by volts will give you.

The amperage information you seek should be on the fixtures. The amps shown on the fixture is a total that takes into account the power factor.   Lighting is a continuous load so [the electrical] code doesn't allow you to exceed 80% of a breaker (or switch, or wire's) rated capacity. A 20 amp breaker should not be loaded over 16 amps continuously. A good guess is that about 9 or 10 fixtures on one breaker would be the limit, allowing for a safety factor of 100% on the calculations.  With LED fixtures you can see this changes drastically to allow more fixtures

Take into account the possibly lousy Power Factor of the ballast as some, especially the older, are poor as its an inductive load because it is an older inefficient  transformer so fluorescent lamps eat more power than they tend to lead on that they do by the listed power consumption.

Finally – you do not HAVE to use this kit on only a shop light – you can build one using 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe four feet long – and any electric cord - or any material with a smooth “adhesive-able” surface – just keep it away from water – as these are not waterproof strips – OR they can be flexed around surface you want to throw light from.  If you use a shop light – you could abandon the bulbs and mount the strips directly on them – for appearance sake – or remove the bulbs and mount  the strips then directly on the old case and/or you could cover them with clear corner guards (Home Depot paint department) to make them liquids resistant to splash and physical damage.